What the New Headlines About “Toxic” Beauty Miss – And Why Botanicals Deserve a Seat at the Table

Recent headlines about toxic chemicals in cosmetics are important – but knee-jerk bans or “natural always safe” messaging will not protect consumers. In this article I explain how botanicals, when standardised, batch-tested and transparently sourced, can deliver real benefits while lowering risk – and what brands, regulators and suppliers must do next to make that possible.

#CleanBeauty #Botanicals #CosmeticSafety #SustainableBeauty #Traceability

Recent reporting has again shone a light on the fact that many personal-care products still contain chemicals that worry consumers and regulators. That story is real – but the reply should not be knee-jerk bans or blanket “natural is always safe” claims. If the beauty industry wants both safer products and consumer trust, botanicals must be part of the solution – with the right science, testing and supply-chain controls behind them.

The problem is that regulators and investigators across regions keep finding restricted or concerning substances – like PFAS, certain preservatives and other toxics in products on shelves. The problem is both a regulatory gap (different rules in different places) and an enforcement/testing gap: ingredients or contaminants sometimes slip through.

Why Botanicals are Attractive

Consumers are voting with their wallets: demand for natural/plant-based and “clean” beauty keeps growing as people seek alternatives to synthetic chemistries and opaque labels. Brands (and investors) see opportunity in plant oils, fruit extracts and botanically-derived actives. At the same time, well-chosen plant ingredients can offer real skin benefits – hydration, antioxidant support, wound-healing and more – that are supported by an expanding body of clinical research.    

However, there is a catch:

Botanicals Are Not Automatically Harmless

A plant extract is a complex chemical mixture. Botanicals can cause allergic sensitisation, carry pesticide or heavy-metal contaminants, or vary wildly in potency between batches if they are not standardised. Multiple reviews and analytical surveys highlight allergen risks from essential oils and plant extracts and recurring findings of heavy-metal contamination in some herbal products and cosmetics. That is why “natural” does not equal “safe” without rigorous testing.

How Companies Can Use Botanicals Responsibly

1. Prioritise validated actives, not vague claims. Use extracts with peer-reviewed evidence of efficacy and safety and avoid marketing language that implies “drug” effects without the data.
2. Test raw material batches for contaminants. Heavy metals, pesticide residues and microbial contamination are common vulnerabilities in botanical supply chains; batch testing is essential.
3. Standardise and document. Use standardised extracts or quantify marker compounds so formulas perform consistently and safety evaluations are meaningful.
4. Third-party verification. Independent labs, safety dossiers aligned with regional regulatory requirements and consumer-facing transparency (full INCI lists, third-party seals) build trust.
5. Sustainability and traceability. Ethical sourcing protects biodiversity, prevents overharvesting and reduces risk of adulteration – all of which protect brand reputation and long-term supply.     

What Regulators and the Industry Need to Do

1. Harmonise rules and improve enforcement. Recent EU updates and regulatory proposals show momentum; consistent thresholds and clearer enforcement will make it harder for hazardous chemicals to remain in consumer products.
2. Invest in modern safety science. New approach methodologies (in-vitro, read-across, computational toxicology) let brands evaluate botanicals faster and without unnecessary animal testing.   
3. Support small producers. Many botanical supply chains are rural livelihoods; technical support and financed certification programs help producers meet the standards that global buyers demand.        

Headlines about “toxic chemicals in beauty” are a wake-up call. The right response is not to swap every synthetic for a raw plant extract – it is to treat botanicals as serious, testable ingredients. With science, rigorous supply-chain controls and transparent labelling, botanicals can be a safer, effective and sustainable future for beauty.

When a “Healing Herb” Turns Harmful – The Surprising Science of Lessertia (Sutherlandia) frutescens

Most of us know Lessertia (formerly Sutherlandia) frutescens (cancer bush) as a champion of traditional medicine – a stress reliever, immune booster, and symbol of African herbal wisdom.

It is even officially recommended for people living with HIV in parts of Southern Africa.

But research has revealed something few expected: in certain HIV-related brain inflammation scenarios, Lessertia may make things worse.

#HIVResearch #Neuroinflammation #Sutherlandia #AfricanBotanicals #TraditionalMedicine #IntegrativeHealth #Phytotherapy #Neuroscience #HIVAwareness #MedicinalPlants #BioactiveCompounds #PlantScience #HealthcareInnovation #EvidenceBasedMedicine

Lessertia frutescens, also known as “cancer bush,” is one of the most celebrated traditional medicines in Southern Africa. From teas to capsules, it is praised for its stress-reducing, anti-inflammatory, and immune-supporting properties.

It is even endorsed by the Ministries of Health in several African countries for use in people living with HIV, often before antiretroviral therapy is available.

But what if, in some contexts, it is doing the opposite of what we hope?

A study put L. frutescens to the test – not in a general wellness setting, but in the specific and complex environment of HIV-associated neuroinflammation, a major driver of HIV-associated neurocognitive disorders.

Using a sophisticated in vitro model of the blood-brain barrier (BBB) and HIV proteins, researchers investigated whether L. frutescens could help reduce the inflammation that allows immune cells to infiltrate the brain.

The results? Surprising.

• It reduced one key inflammatory marker (IL-1β) under certain conditions.
• But it increased another major inflammatory player (MCP-1) in the presence of HIV proteins – a chemokine that draws monocytes into the brain.
• It actually increased the migration of monocytes across the BBB in response to HIV proteins – potentially worsening neuroinflammation.

What does this mean?

In HIV, monocyte infiltration into the brain is a critical step in setting up a viral reservoir and triggering the inflammation that damages neurons. Treatments that aggravate this process could, over time, contribute to the very neurocognitive decline they are intended to prevent.

The takeaway is not that Lessertia is bad – it still shows promise for stress reduction, muscle preservation, and other uses. But this research highlights that context is everything. An herb that is helpful in one physiological setting may be harmful in another.

For those working in traditional medicine, phytotherapy, or HIV care, this is a reminder: rigorous, targeted research is essential before recommending botanicals for complex diseases.

African medicinal plants hold extraordinary potential – but also complex bioactivity.

Respecting that complexity means using science not only to find their powers, but also their limits.

Because true respect for traditional medicine means making sure it helps – and never unintentionally harms – the people who trust it.

Reference

Africa LD., & Smith C. (2015). Sutherlandia frutescens may exacerbate HIV-associated neuroinflammation. J Negat Results Biomed, 18 (14):14. https://doi.org/10.1186/s12952-015-0031-y

10 Amazing Skincare Benefits Of Marula Oil You Need To Know For Youthful, Glowing Skin

Marula oil, derived from the fruit kernels of the marula tree indigenous to Southern Africa, represents a rich legacy of nourishment and care, making it a cherished addition to your skincare regimen. For generations, African communities have utilised this golden oil as both a moisturiser and a protective agent. Contemporary studies affirm that it is abundant in monounsaturated fatty acids^1,2,3,4, amino acids³, and antioxidants such as vitamins^2,4 C and E, bestowing it with exceptional hydrating and anti-inflammatory properties.

Let’s take a closer look at 10 scientifically supported benefits of marula oil for achieving youthful, radiant skin:

1. Antioxidant Defense: Marula oil is a rich source of various antioxidants like phenolic compounds and vitamins (E and C) that help remove free radicals. These antioxidants help protect skin cells from damage caused by dangerous UV rays and air pollution, slowing down visible aging and preserving a healthy glow⁵.
2. Deep Hydration: The presence of high levels of oleic and palmitic acids, quickly penetrates to intensely hydrate the skin. Clinical trials show it is highly moisturising even on very dry skin, locking in moisture so skin looks plump and healthy⁶.
3. Essential Fatty Acids: More than 90% of the fats in marula oil are omega fatty acids, including 69% oleic acid, along with linoleic, palmitic, and others. These fatty acids closely resemble the lipids found in our skin, allowing them to nourish and strengthen the skin’s natural barrier. Essentially, marula oil replenishes the essential fats that keep the skin soft and healthy⁶.
4. Skin Barrier Support: As a biomimetic oil, marula creates a lightweight occlusive film on the skin’s surface. This barrier helps prevent water loss and protects the skin from irritants. By decreasing trans-epidermal water loss, it allows the skin to retain moisture for hours⁶.
5. Calming & Soothing: Marula oil contains anti-inflammatory compounds from plant antioxidants, which help reduce redness and irritation. Dermatology experts note that it has soothing effects, making it beneficial for dry, cracked skin. This calming property contributes to achieving a smooth, even complexion⁷.
6. Collagen and Elasticity Enhancement: Marula oil is rich in skin-loving amino acids, such as L-arginine, and essential nutrients that promote collagen production and improve skin elasticity. African nutritionists have long recognised that marula oil “aids in collagen production and fights aging.” Regular use of this oil can help the skin feel firmer and tighter, enhancing its overall resilience².
7. Smoothes Fine Lines: Marula oil is effective in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Its unique combination of hydrating fatty acids and antioxidants helps to soften and smooth the skin. Users have noted that it effectively “softens and smooths fine lines” on their faces. By providing moisture and preventing dryness, marula oil plumps up the skin, making age lines less noticeable over time³.
8. Lightweight & Fast-Absorbing: Pure marula oil is remarkably lightweight and absorbs quickly, unlike heavier oils. It doesn’t leave a greasy residue, making it perfect for layering under makeup or sunscreen³. This property makes it suitable for daily use, even for those with oily or acne-prone skin, as it won’t clog pores and can deliver its benefits effectively^3,7.
9. Protects Against Stressors: Marula oil offers protection against environmental stressors such as sun exposure and pollution. According to Dr. Hadley King, oils like marula play a crucial role in combating these damaging elements³. In summary, using marula oil provides an added layer of defense to help maintain your youthful complexion.
10. All-Around Beauty Elixir: Marula oil is a true multitasker. It nourishes the face, body, lips, and even nails (and hair) with deep moisture³. For instance, it works wonderfully as a cuticle conditioner and lip moisturiser³. By using it from head to toe, you can ensure that every part of your skin receives the plumping and rejuvenating benefits of African botanicals.

Ready to glow naturally?

#SkincareScience #MarulaOil #NaturalBeauty #AntiAgeing #AfrikaBotanicals

You can access the full article here:

1. Bvenura, C., & Kambizi, L. (2024). Chemical Profile and Potential Applications of Sclerocarya birrea (A.Rich.) Hochst. subsp. caffra (Sond.) Kokwaro Kernel Oils: Analysis of Volatile Compounds and Fatty Acids. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules29163815
2. Olas, B. (2025). Marula [Sclerocarya birrea] Products as Food and Medicine: Biological Activities and Chemical Composition.

https://doi.org/10.3389/fphar.2025.1552355

3. WebMD Editorial Contributor. (2025). Health benefits of marula oil. WebMD.

https://www.webmd.com/diet/health-benefits-marula-oil

4. Alshaman, R., Qushawy, M., Mokhtar, H. I., Ameen, A. M., El-Sayed, R. M., Alamri, E. S., Elabbasy, L. M., Helaly, A. M. N., Elkhatib, W. F., Alyahya, E. M., & Zaitone, S. A. (2023). Marula oil nanoemulsion improves motor function in experimental parkinsonism via mitigation of inflammation and oxidative stress. https://doi.org/10.3389/fphar.2023.1293306
5. Kumar, V., Tanwar, N., Goel, M., Khan, M., Kumar, D., Singh, G., Mundlia, J., Khatri, N., & Kumar, A. (2024). Antioxidants for Skin Health. https://doi.org/10.2174/012772574X311177240710100118
6. Komane, B., Vermaak, I., Summers, B., & Viljoen, A. (2015). Safety and efficacy of Sclerocarya birrea (A.Rich.) Hochst (Marula) oil: A clinical perspective. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2015.10.037
7. Chadwick, M. R. (2024). Marula oil is the hydrating, Anti-Inflammatory solution Derms Love – Here’s Why.

https://www.byrdie.com/marula-oil-for-skin-4842342#toc-how-to-use-it

The Hidden Treasures of Africa:

Sustainable and Potent Seed Oils for Skin and Hair Care

In the vast landscapes of Africa, from the Kalahari Desert to the lush savannas, nature has bestowed upon us a treasure trove of botanical wonders. Among these are the remarkable seed oils that have been used for centuries by indigenous communities for their nourishing and healing properties. What sets these African seed oils apart is not just their efficacy but also their unique and intriguing properties. Often wild-harvested from naturally occurring plants in unpolluted regions, these oils offer a pure, potent, and eco-friendly alternative to many commercial beauty products. As we delve into the world of Marula, Mongongo, Baobab, Ximenia and Kalahari Melon oils, we’ll discover why these might be the ultimate carrier oils for your skin and hair care needs.

The Power of Sustainable Beauty: African Seed Oils as Nature’s Gift

As we’ve explored, the unique properties of these African seed oils make them stand out in the world of natural beauty care. Their sustainability aspect is a testament to our responsibility towards the environment. Many of these oils are sourced from wild-growing trees and plants that have adapted to harsh climates, requiring little to no agricultural intervention. This wild harvesting ensures the purest form of the oil and provides economic opportunities for local communities without depleting natural resources.

The Power of African Seed Oils: Marula, Mongongo, Baobab, Ximenia and Kalahari Melon

In recent years, African seed oils have gained popularity for their remarkable skin and hair care benefits. Let’s explore five unique oils – Marula, Mongongo, Baobab, Ximenia, and Kalahari Melon – and their distinctive properties.

Marula Oil:

Marula oil, derived from the kernels of the marula fruit, is rich in antioxidants and essential fatty acids. It’s exceptionally high in oleic acid, which gives it excellent moisturising properties. Marula oil is known for its ability to hydrate and nourish skin and hair without leaving a greasy residue. Its lightweight texture makes it suitable for all skin types, including oily and acne-prone.

Mongongo Oil:

Mongongo oil, extracted from the nuts of the manketti tree, stands out for its high content of eleostearic acid, a polyunsaturated fatty acid with potent antioxidant properties. This oil is particularly beneficial for sun-damaged skin and hair, as it may help protect against UV radiation. Mongongo oil is also rich in vitamin E, making it an excellent choice for promoting skin elasticity and hair strength.

Baobab Oil:

Baobab oil, pressed from the seeds of the baobab fruit, is known for its exceptional vitamin and mineral content. It’s particularly rich in vitamins A, D, E and F and omega-3, 6 and 9 fatty acids. This combination makes baobab oil highly effective in improving skin elasticity and promoting hair growth. Its fast-absorbing nature makes it an excellent moisturiser for both skin and hair.

Ximenia Oil:

Ximenia oil is derived from the kernels of the ximenia americana fruit. This oil is unique due to its high content of long-chain fatty acids, particularly C22 fatty acids, which are rare in plant oils. Ximenia oil is known for its intense moisturising properties and ability to improve skin texture and reduce the appearance of scars.

Kalahari Melon Oil:

Kalahari melon oil, extracted from the seeds of the Citrullus lanatus (wild watermelon), is exceptionally high in linoleic acid. This makes it particularly beneficial for acne-prone skin, as linoleic acid can help regulate sebum production. Kalahari melon oil can help improve moisture retention and reduce frizz for hair.

Comparative Benefits:

While all these oils offer moisturising benefits, they each have unique properties:

1. For dry skin: Marula and Ximenia oils are particularly effective due to their intense moisturising properties.

2. For acne-prone skin: Kalahari melon oil may be the best choice due to its high linoleic acid content.

3. For sun-damaged skin and hair, Mongongo oil offers superior protection.

4. With its high vitamin content, Baobab oil is an excellent option for improving skin elasticity.

5. Baobab and Mongongo oils are particularly beneficial for hair growth and strength.

These African seed oils offer a range of skin and hair care benefits. Their unique compositions make them suitable for different needs, from intense moisturisation to UV protection and sebum regulation. As with any new product, it’s always best to perform a patch test before completing the application, especially if you have sensitive skin.

The Power of Sustainable Beauty: African Seed Oils as Nature’s Gift

African seed oils stand out in the world of natural beauty care. Moreover, the regions where these plants grow are often far removed from industrial pollution, resulting in oils free from many contaminants found in commercially farmed products. This purity and the potent natural properties of these African seed oils make them some of the best carrier oils available, giving you reassurance and confidence in your choice. They offer a way to nourish your skin and hair while supporting sustainable practices and local economies.

By choosing these oils, you are not only benefiting your health and beauty but also playing a crucial role in preserving Africa’s rich biodiversity and supporting its communities. Your choice is a powerful testament to the importance of sustainable, mindful consumption in our increasingly interconnected world, making you feel empowered and responsible.